Pumpkins and the pumpkin patch - published in Hinterliving August 2008

Pumpkins are a delightful sight in the markets and green grocers and they epitomise winter comfort food.  They look glorious in the pumpkin patch, with their trailing vines, peeking out from under their heart-shaped leaves. They are lovely grown as decoration as well as for their crop and provide an excellent way to camouflage bare patches of ground, old fences and tree stumps. In Martha Stewart’s book, ‘Entertaining ’, there are two glorious photographs of her pumpkin patch overlooking Long Island Sound. One, where Martha, at the age of about 35 and at the height of her fame, is hoeing her pumpkin patch in  little denim shorts, looking fit, beautiful, and glamorous; and the other is of a  table set for lunch in the same patch, surrounded by  superb pumpkins and their vines.  Since reading this, years ago, I have always wanted such a colourful and healthy looking pumpkin patch of my own, where I too can sit and enjoy a wonderful lunch with friends.  My pumpkin patch is soon to materialise and I am looking forward to cooking with pumpkins from my own garden. 

Meanwhile, my neighbour Geoff, has a field of pumpkins almost taking over the bottom of his garden and he is supplying me with dozens of pumpkins which will last me for the next few months.  They are wonderful Kent or ‘Jap’ pumpkins, with ribbed, yellow-green mottled skin, and a sweet, nutty, deep yellow-orange flesh that tastes delicious. They are currently decorating the kitchen, sitting atop the cupboards. 

Pumpkins are available all year round but they are at their prime in late autumn and winter. They belong to the ‘cucurbit’ or ‘gourd’ family. The botanical classification of pumpkins is complicated because they belong to four different species of the ‘cucurbita’, genus and varieties belonging to each of these species may also produce hybrids by cross-pollination, within and between the species.  This is why pumpkins vary so much in size, shape and colour – weights can range from 1 to 50 kilograms! 

All four species probably originated in Mexico, Central or South America, although their origin is uncertain.  Some fossilised squash seeds have been found in Andean sites that are believed to be dated back to several millennia BC.  Pumpkins and squash were the staple diet of the Indian tribes throughout the Americas and as they migrated northwards they took the seeds with them and planted them along the way.  Waverley Root, in his encyclopaedic work, Food, devoted four full pages to the history of the squash family, which includes both pumpkins and gourds. He also writes that they were grown in the hanging gardens of Babylon; pumpkin recipes appear in Apicius, a collection of Roman cookery recipes; they were grown in Gaul; they are in the very first post-Roman cookbook, that of Platina, where there was a recipe for squash soup; and that Charlemagne ordered that squash be grown in his dominions.  And the word 'pumpkin' comes from pepõn, the Greek word for melon.

Some of our pumpkin varieties include:
• Kent or Jap pumpkin has a sweet and nutty flavour and is great mashed.
• Butternut is bell-shaped with a smooth, beige skin and a nutty flavour, great for soups.
• Golden nugget is a small, round pumpkin with deep orange skin and golden flesh. Its mild flavour and high ratio of seeds to flesh make it ideal for hollowing out, stuffing and baking.
• Jarrahdale is a large, grey pumpkin, easily peeled, with sweet, deep orange flesh that works well in curries.
• Minikin is one of the smallest varieties available.  It has golden skin and flesh, lots of seeds and is another good choice for stuffing.
• Queensland blue is well known for its large size and grey skin; it is heavily ribbed and adds a full flavour to casseroles and stews.
• Sweet dumpling is smaller than the golden nugget, and has a mild-flavoured flesh that's perfect for roasting.

From a nutritional perspective, pumpkins are an excellent source of vitamin A, some calcium, phosphorus, potassium, thiamin and vitamin C.  They are sodium and fat free, with 188 kilojoules per 100 grams.  A study by the US Department of Agriculture indicated that diets high in pumpkin as a fiber source tended to curb the appetite, as they provide a feeling of satiety. The subjects in the study also absorbed less fat and calories from their food. Pumpkin seeds and seed oil are a good source of zinc and unsaturated fatty acids.

Pumpkins are best harvested when the vines die and the fruit is fully mature.  The stalk should be dry and brittle, so that it snaps easily from the vine.  They are more flavoursome when fully ripe and may be kept for several months in a dry, cool and well-ventilated spot.

When buying whole pumpkins, look for those with a hard, thick skin and ones that feel heavy for their size. If purchasing pre-cut pumpkins, select flesh that is a bright yellow-orange without any discolouration.  Once cut, remove the seeds, wrap in plastic wrap and store in the fridge for up to a week.

Every part of most varieties, from the chewy skin to the nutritious seeds, also known as pepitas, can be cooked and eaten. They may be steamed, boiled in a little water, puréed, roasted, baked, braised or stuffed.  When mashed and added cake and muffin mixtures, they add moisture and texture.  They may be used in soups, pies, tarts, breads, stews and even as a thickener for sauces.  They may be served simply as a vegetable accompaniment to meat or poultry, served in pasta dishes, salads or soups. The southern Italians pickle pumpkin with garlic, olive oil, white wine vinegar and thyme.  The sweet flesh can also be combined with cinnamon, maple syrup or cream for a delicious dessert. Pumpkin goes well with apples, bacon, cheese, chickpeas, coconut milk, garlic, ginger, lamb, nutmeg, onion, oranges, sage, spinach and tarragon.  In sweet dishes pumpkin is enhanced by ginger, cinnamon, brandy or rum.

The pumpkin flowers are also edible and can be stuffed, then shallow or deep fried and enjoyed as a starter or as part of an antipasto platter, in a similar way to zucchini flowers. Pumpkin seeds are delicious as snacks and added to your muesli, and they make a good, less expensive alternative to pine nuts.  You can roast them on a baking sheet in the oven at a low temperature, or toss them in a dry pan over medium heat, stirring often to avoid burning. To add more flavour, you can soak the seeds in salt water before toasting.

And finally there is pumpkin seed oil; however, due to its strong flavour and colour, it is normally mixed with other oils for cooking, salad dressings and other uses.

At home, I am constantly making pumpkin soup and a roasted pumpkin, garlic and chilli salad as they are my daughter’s favourites.  At On the Ridge, in our Italianicious – Cooking with Passion class we frequently include a roasted pumpkin stuffing for our class-made fresh ravioli.  Another class favourite and mine also, is a pumpkin tart with semi-dried tomatoes and mascarpone, made with parmesan pastry and accompanied by our tomato relish and a baby herb salad. 

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