Avocadoes – no longer exotic – just scrumptious - published in Hinterliving June 2008

In the 1980’s, we bought an old federation style house in Brighton, Victoria; it came with an  enormous back garden and fruit trees – apricot, plum, apple, lemon, two figs, and, best of all, 2 large fruit bearing avocado trees.  How thrilling – it was quite unusual for avocadoes to grow in Melbourne, so we were most fortunate to have these lovely shady trees which, each year, produced forty or fifty glorious, green Fuerte avocadoes.  One day I went out to pick the crop and the tree was bare – all gone, such a tragedy – somebody had picked them all whilst we were at work! 

Avocadoes have been popular in Australia since the 1960’s, when they were regarded as rather exotic and were quite expensive.  In the mid 70’s we paid $5.00 each and treated ourselves to one for lunch with a squeeze of lemon juice and salt and pepper – yum. It was something special and to be savoured.  Avocadoes are now available all year round, although they are at their peak between May and November. 

The avocado tree is native to Mexico and Central America and belongs, along with cinnamon and camphor, to the Laurel family.  It is a climacteric fruit, which means that the fruit matures on the tree but ripens off the tree. The mature avocado may be left on the tree for some time before being picked; however, over-mature fruit may fall from the tree and develop off flavours and if the fruit is picked too early it will not ripen properly, but will shrivel.

Our climate is good for the growing of avocadoes; they grow very easily from seed.  Plant at least two varieties, or three, for better pollination.  Choose Hass as one of those, as it ripens much later than the others so you'll get fruit for longer.  There are about 70 varieties available in Australia, (over 700 worldwide), with Fuerte, Hass and Sharwill being the main varieties.  All going well, you can expect your first fruit three or four years after planting; an average avocado tree yields about 120 fruit per season.

For the best flavoured avocadoes, buy them locally at our farmers’ markets; these have not been kept for months in cold storage and sometimes they are ripe and ready to eat.  If not, ripen them in an airy spot, with room temperature between 15ºC – 24ºC; this may take 1 -2 weeks.  Ripening can be accelerated by a day or two by storing in a brown paper bag with a banana or apple.  To test for ripeness, cradle the avocado in your hand and press around the neck or stem end of the fruit, the flesh should yield slightly.  Some say it should feel like the tip of your nose when pressed.  Once ripened, they may be refrigerated for a week or so.

Avocadoes are a delicious and highly nutritious fruit.  They are a good source of vitamins A, B6 and C, thiamine, riboflavin, folic acid and niacin.  They are high in fat, up to 30%, but it is predominantly monounsaturated fat, which is “good” fat.   They are sodium-free; contain no cholesterol and little or no sugar or starch.

Cut the avocado lengthwise into halves, twist to separate.  Carefully insert a sharp knife into the seed, twist and lift out the seed. When cut and exposed to air, the flesh browns quickly, so the flesh must be covered with a citric juice, such as lime or lemon.  Occasionally, you may notice a stone or two buried in the flesh of the fruit – this is the result of a fruit fly sting.  When stung by the fruit fly, the avocado produces an enzyme to encapsulate the string, protecting the fruit, and this in turn forms the stone.  It is perfectly harmless, simply remove the stone and discard.

Local man, Bede Mackenzie, cold presses his delicious avocadoes to make Maleny Avocado Oil.  He sells it at the local farmers’ markets as well as good fruit shops.  Cold pressed oils are superior health products as they retain their flavour, aroma and nutritional value.  Avocado oil has the highest smoke point of any oil at 255ºC. It is ideal for roasting, baking, stir-frying, grilling and simply drizzled over salads and vegetables; it is also beneficial as a skin moisturiser, and assists cell growth and repair!  At On the Ridge, we love serving it with our focaccias and dukkah.

The avocado flavour is delicate, nutty, creamy and unctuous, with a buttery texture.  Avocadoes team well with seafood, herb and salad greens, mangoes, bacon, chicken, chillies, lemons and limes.  Spread on toast, made into a mousse or in panna cottas, used in soups and salads, with eggs, on sandwiches, and in dips, especially the famed guacamole, their uses are almost endless.  (Remember, if adding to a hot dish, do so at the end, as cooked flesh can taste bitter). 

For Elizabeth David, they were at their best served alone, as an entrée, dressed with salt, pepper, extra virgin olive oil and lemon.  At On the Ridge, in A Slice of the Hinterland – Cuisine of the Sun cooking class, we enjoy an Avocado Panna Cotta with Salmon Gravlax, Wasabi and Rice Wine Vinaigrette and Finger Lime Caviar; check the website www.ontheridge.com.au for the recipe.